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New to the craft? Start with what is amigurumi and how crochet toys are made.
You open a new amigurumi PDF and see something like “R3: *sc 1, inc* x6 (18)”. If that looks like a secret code, you are not alone. Crochet patterns are written in a kind of shorthand, but it is a small, repeating set of symbols. Once you can read it, every pattern gets easier.
This guide explains how an amigurumi pattern is organized, what the common abbreviations mean, how to follow rounds and stitch counts, and how to tell US and UK terms apart. You will also see a short sample pattern explained line by line. At the end are three patterns from my collection that are a good place to practice.
How an Amigurumi PDF Pattern Is Organized
Most PDF patterns follow the same layout. Read through these sections before you pick up your hook:
- Materials. The yarn, hook size, safety eyes or embroidery thread, stuffing and other tools the designer used.
- Finished size. The size is usually given for the yarn and hook listed. A different yarn or hook gives a different size.
- Abbreviations. A list of the short codes used in that pattern, and often the stitch terms (US or UK) it follows. Always check this list first.
- Notes. Tips such as “work in a spiral” or “stuff as you go”.
- Parts. Head, body, arms, ears and so on, each written as its own set of rounds.
- Assembly. Where to sew each part and how to add the face.
Common Amigurumi Abbreviations
Different designers use slightly different codes, so treat this table as a starting point and check the list in your own pattern.
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| MR | Magic ring (also called magic circle), the adjustable loop most amigurumi starts with |
| ch | Chain |
| sl st | Slip stitch |
| sc | Single crochet (US terms) |
| inc | Increase: make two single crochets in the same stitch |
| dec (or sc2tog) | Decrease: work two stitches together into one |
| inv dec | Invisible decrease, a neater way to decrease (worked in the front loops only) |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| R, Rnd | Round |
| BLO / FLO | Back loop only / front loop only |
| rep | Repeat |
| sk | Skip |
| FO | Fasten off |
How to Read the Symbols: Stars, Brackets and Numbers
- Asterisks or square brackets mark a repeat. *sc 2, inc* x6 and [sc 2, inc] x6 both mean: do “sc 2, inc” six times in a row.
- The number in parentheses at the end of a line is your total. (18) means you should have 18 stitches when the round is finished. This is the best way to check your work.
- A number before a stitch means how many to make. sc 3 is one single crochet in each of the next 3 stitches. 3 sc in next st means three single crochets all in the same stitch.
- A range of rounds means the same instruction repeats. R5-R7: sc in each st around (24) means rounds 5, 6 and 7 are all worked the same way.
A Sample Pattern, Line by Line
Here is a simple made-up example of the start of a ball-shaped piece. It is not taken from any specific pattern, but it follows the usual structure.
| Line | What it means |
|---|---|
| R1: 6 sc in MR (6) | Make a magic ring and work 6 single crochets into it. You now have 6 stitches. |
| R2: inc in each st around (12) | Make 2 single crochets in every stitch. 6 stitches become 12. |
| R3: *sc 1, inc* x6 (18) | One single crochet, then an increase. Do this 6 times. Each repeat uses 2 stitches and makes 3, so you end with 18. |
| R4: *sc 2, inc* x6 (24) | Two single crochets, then an increase, 6 times. Each repeat uses 3 stitches and makes 4, so you end with 24. |
| R5-R7: sc in each st around (24) | Three plain rounds with no shaping. The piece grows taller, not wider. |
| R8: *sc 2, dec* x6 (18) | Two single crochets, then a decrease, 6 times. Each repeat uses 4 stitches and makes 3, so 24 becomes 18. |
Notice the pattern behind the numbers: increases make the shape wider, rounds without shaping make it taller, and decreases close it again. Once you see that, you can picture the shape before you crochet it. For a neat decrease, see my step-by-step guide to the invisible decrease.
Working in Rounds: Spiral or Joined?
Most amigurumi is worked in a continuous spiral. You do not join each round with a slip stitch or turn your work. That makes it easy to lose your place, so:
- Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up as you go.
- Use a row counter or tick off rounds on paper.
- Count your stitches at the end of each round, at least while the piece is small.
If a pattern says to join with a slip stitch, or to chain and turn, it will say so in the notes or in that line.
US vs UK Terms: Check Before You Start
Crochet stitch names differ between US and UK terminology. The same abbreviation can mean two different stitches, which is a common reason a piece comes out the wrong size.
| US term | UK term |
|---|---|
| Single crochet (sc) | Double crochet (dc) |
| Half double crochet (hdc) | Half treble (htr) |
| Double crochet (dc) | Treble (tr) |
| Treble crochet (tr) | Double treble (dtr) |
| Skip | Miss |
The chain (ch) and slip stitch (sl st) are the same in both systems. Amigurumi is mostly worked in the shortest, tightest stitch, which is called single crochet in US terms. So if a pattern says “6 dc in magic ring” for the first round, it is probably written in UK terms. The abbreviation list should say which one the designer uses. If it does not, check the product description or ask the designer.
Tips for Following a Pattern Without Mistakes
- Read the whole pattern first. Knowing what comes next, such as where you will stuff or sew, prevents surprises.
- Use the yarn and hook the pattern lists if you want the stated finished size. Your tension can change the result.
- Mark your progress. Write the round number you just finished, or keep a printout and tick off each line.
- Watch the numbers in parentheses. If your count is off, find the mistake right away. It is much easier to undo one round than five.
- Leave a long tail when the pattern says “FO and leave a long tail”. You will need it to sew the part on later.
- Check the photos and the assembly notes before you attach parts, so ears, arms and faces end up where the designer intended.
Patterns to Practice Reading
When you are ready for a first project, here are three PDF patterns on Creative Fabrica. The descriptions come from my pattern roundups. Check each product page for the exact materials, abbreviations and terms before you buy.
1. Bunny Lovey Blanket
A soft comfort blanket about 12 x 12 inches with a round bunny head, long floppy ears and a textured square body. It is a relaxed beginner project, so it is a friendly first pattern to read.
2. Plush Easter Bunny
A beginner-friendly bunny that needs very little sewing, so you can spend more time reading and following the rounds.
Get the Easter Bunny Pattern →
3. Crochet Dolphin
A smooth dolphin with a curved body, suitable for both beginners and experienced crocheters, a nice way to see how increases and decreases shape a piece.
Want more ideas? Browse my roundups of amigurumi animal patterns and more amigurumi animal patterns.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the number in parentheses at the end of a round mean?
It is the total number of stitches you should have after finishing that round. Use it to check your work.
Why is my finished piece a different size from the pattern?
The stated size is for the yarn and hook listed in the pattern. A thicker yarn, a larger hook or looser tension makes a bigger piece, and a thinner yarn or smaller hook makes a smaller one.
Are all amigurumi patterns written in US terms?
No. Many are, but some designers use UK terms. Check the abbreviation list at the start of the pattern. If “dc” is the main stitch of the first round, the pattern is probably in UK terms.
What if I lose count in the middle of a round?
Stop and count your stitches. If the count does not match the number in parentheses, undo back to the last correct round. A stitch marker at the start of each round makes this much easier.
Happy crocheting!
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